Some wine descriptors have a way of making us giggle, at least internally: “Worn leather,” “decomposed earth,” and “forest floor” are big ones that always make me crack a playful smile. Not to say that these terms are BS, because they’re most certainly valid ways to describe wine. But what can I say? It’s just funny to think about stopping my hike to lick the dirt—which is exactly what I imagine any time someone utters the latter. Then, there’s “minerality,” which is far more mysterious and hard to put your finger on than the earthy scent of fallen leaves and damp oak trees. Some say minerality tastes and smells of crushed river stones, wet granite, or sun-baked sand. Some swear that a particular vineyard creates a certain rocky minerality in a wine. Others think the whole idea of minerality is a bunch of bunk. Science tells us that this beguiling wine characteristic does not, as you might think, come from any real life mineral compounds found within the soil, but is—like most wine characteristics—the result of an artful culmination of factors that cannot be “planned.” The short answer: We may not know exactly how or why that wine really shines with refreshing minerality we seek, but we can sure as heck enjoy it!
Kiamie 2015 White Kuvee
Why: Kiamie Wine Cellars 2015 White Kuvee is bright and floral in character with undertones of minerality unique to the vineyard. This vintage offers aromas that envelope the glass with real density and weight with a crisp, seemingly faux dry finish. The pungent hints of peach schnapps, tarragon and spiced applesauce characteristic of Grenache Blanc merely round out and compliment Viognier.
Pair with: Vietnamese spring rolls with mango honey shrimp and Thai basil wrapped in rice vermicelli served with a garlic peanut dipping sauce.
Mapping and Directions to Kiamie Wine Cellars: speedfind.com/KiamieWines
Hoyt Vineyards 2013 Chardonnay
Why: This “drink all day chardonnay” from Hoyt Family Vineyards is light, crisp, and bright with the lush butter and oak you crave. A low acid profile and fresh minerality also allow fruity pear and citrus notes to shine through.
Pair with: Gorgonzola-topped salad with brandy-soaked pears and toasted baguette.
Mapping and Directions to Hoyt Family Vineyards Tasting Room at the Rabbit Hole, downtown Paso Robles: speedfind.com/HoytFamilyRabbitHole
Mapping and Directions to Hoyt Family Vineyards, Templeton (by appt. only): speedfind.com/HoytFamilyVineyards
Cass Winery 2014 Rockin’ One Blanc
Why: Cass Vineyard & Winery’s 2014 Rockin’ One Blanc mirrors of gold reflect hints of Asian pear preserves, melon meringue, candied quince and hawthorn blossom. Essence of freshly whipped butter cream, Meyer lemon custard and white peach balance upon a full yet delicate palate. Soft acidity and stony minerality weave flavors of crushed chamomile, baking spice and toasted cashews that herald a lingering, layered finish kissed by honey tea.
Pair with: Fresh pasta with lemon cream sauce topped with artichoke, lemon zest, and capers; shortbread cookies smeared with sweet-tangy quince paste.
Mapping and Directions to Cass Vineyard & Winery: speedfind.com/CassWinery
Hearst Ranch Winery 2015 Rhone Blend
Why: The driving force behind the 2015 bottling of Hearst Ranch Winery’s Three Sisters White is an elegant minerality, front and center. Grenache Blanc is put in the driver’s seat for this vintage to highlight the strengths of this beautiful varietal. The Viognier component was dialed back to 20% but still makes its presence known with floral aromatics. The 13% Roussanne adds richness to the mid-palate while the 10% Picpoul Blanc punctuates the acid profile. The resulting cuvee is one of composed restraint that allows all of the components to shine without creating any shadows.
Pair with: Seared Ahi tacos topped with sweet-spicy cabbage slaw and crumbly Mexican queso fresco.
Mapping and Directions to Hearst Ranch Winery Jack Ranch Café Tasting Room, Cholame: speedfind.com/HearstRanch
Mapping and Directions to Hearst Ranch Winery Sebastion Café, San Simeon: speedfind.com/HearstRanchWinery
Jada 2016 1149 Rosé
Why: With fresh watermelon juice, bubble-gum, flower-scented lotion, potpourri, green apple, and pine needles, Jada Vineyard’s 2016 1149 Rosé is as playful and flirtatious, to be sure. The palate shows a combination of Maraschino cherry, crushed rocks (there’s your minerality), salted taffy, and rose water. A concrete fermentation helps integrate and balance the alcohol and acid; the few months in 500L barrels added a subtle, but nuanced, baked pretzel note on the finish.
Pair with: A noshable spread of fine salami, prosciutto, olives, and frozen grapes; watermelon and arugula salad drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette.
Mapping and Directions to Jada Vineyards: speedfind.com/JadaVineyard
This blog was written by Hayley Thomas Cain, food and wine writer for SLO New Times and PasoRoblesWineries.net. You can reach her at [email protected] or follow her on instagram @flavorslo.
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